That Was Amazing

March 9

The day started with disappointment and ended with amazement. It was yet another terrific day in NZ.

The disappointing start came in the form of a cancelled Parkrun. I’d been so looking forward to doing Parkrun here and my first one outside of Australia, so to learn that it was cancelled due to an event being set up along the course, left me very deflated. Still, not to be discouraged, I headed out anyway to the spot where it would have been run and took myself for a very enjoyable 10km plod along the path beside the harbour. There were lots of other runners about and the sun shone as we all enjoyed a morning run in a super location. I stopped many, many times to take photos and read information boards. One of these told me that I was running past the street where Nancy Wake was born, she of WWII spy fame, known as “the mouse that roared”. So, while I was disappointed to miss Parkrun, I was more than happy with a very enjoyable replacement. 

Off for a morning run beside the harbour
I wouldn’t call a ruffian wind bliss, I’ve battled too many of them on foot and wheels!
Houses beside the harbour
More street art
Just a whale sculpture that I liked!
The street where Nancy Wake was born
A mural at the harbour

We set off on today’s exploration with a ride up the cable car to the Botanic Gardens. The cable car has been running for 120 years and gives a view out over the city and harbour as it chugs its way up the hill. When we stepped out into the sunshine, we stopped at a viewing area that gave us sweeping views across Wellington. Another couple were beside us and offered to take our photo, asking where we were from. When we told them we were from Tasmania, they asked about our time in NZ and I asked where they were from.

“Oh, a place on the east coast of England called Ipswich,” the man told us.

“Oh yes, I’ve been to Ipswich,” I told them.

“No you haven’t!” the lady said with a laugh of disbelief, so I explained how we’d come to be there on one of our cycling trips.

“Did you like the Norfolk coast?” they asked.

“We liked the flat of the Norfolk coast,” I said, “after the thigh burning of the Jurassic Coast.”

It was a nice chat with a couple of visitors like ourselves and then we set off to roam the gardens.

Up she goes…down she goes
Up the top and a top view

The gardens were an interesting set up, with the gardens being on a hill, so rather than having sprawling grounds like so many city Botanic Gardens, this one was almost on tiers. As we wound our way down a long, steep path, there were different types of gardens along the way. The sun shone, it was hot and calm and we enjoyed our leisurely stroll in the greenery and sunshine. A delightful morning outing.

Roaming around the Botanic Gardens with cactus…
…paths winding down…
…trees with tentacle branches…
…ducks in ponds…
…ducks in rose gardens…
…camouflaged ducks that I very nearly trod on…
…but still didn’t bat an eye…
…views across part of the gardens…
…heaps of butterflies having lunch on flowers…
…and begonias and exotics in hot houses.

We walked ourselves back to the city, regrouped and then headed off to a couple of exhibitions. Lou went off to a Marvel exhibition with the characters from the movies and comics and costumes from the movies to see and info about the whole Marvel Universe. I left Lou to immerse herself in that, while I went across the road to Te Papa, the museum of New Zealand. I headed straight for the Gallipoli exhibition and from the first room, I knew I was in for an amazing and moving experience. Of all the museums I’ve been to, all the exhibitions, documentaries, films and books I’ve consumed about WWI and the Gallipoli campaign, this was something quite incredible. It included models created by Weta Workshop, that were on a 1:2.4 scale, so they reached up to the ceiling. Even on this scale, the level of detail was incredible, down to the pores on the skin, the wrinkles on the elbows, the muscle definition, veins and even sweat and tears on the people they were depicting. Each model was a real person who had been involved in the Gallipoli campaign, so we learnt their story and as I moved through the information, the exhibits and models, I got really invested in these, and other people described, to then learn of how their Gallipoli experienced ended. Some of the representations of the conflict were incredibly moving and powerful and I spent two hours there and could easily have spent that over again. All I could say afterwards was, “That was amazing!” It wasn’t just the models, it was the varied and innovative ways the story of the Gallipoli campaign and the effects of war was shown. It was the most impactful and moving museum experience I’ve ever had. I needed to just let the experience sit with me for a while afterwards and try and process it, because it really did hit me emotionally. A very unique and incredible exhibition to have experienced and to be shown again the horrors of war. It’s a shame it can’t go on tour and find its way to our War Memorial, especially because it told of the ANZAC experience but from a New Zealand perspective. It’s a shame more can’t experience it.   

Lieutenant Spencer Westmacott was one of the First New Zealand men to land on Gallipoli on April 25. He scrambled up a ridge and led his men to a hill called Baby 700, shouting, “Good boys! Good lads!” At Baby 700 he reinforced the Australian line but his right arm was smashed by a bullet while holding off an attack. He was stretchered to the beach and evacuated that night.
The models were as tall as the ceiling and I found the level of detail incredible, right down to the torn cuticles on the fingers and wrinkles in the skin.
One of the murals showing the landing
Lieutenant Colonel Percival Fenwick was one of the first New Zealand doctors ashore. “In the next god-awful 24 hours, he treated hundreds of us Anzacs on the beach. He set up a casualty clearing station and did his best to sort out systems and get us more supplies. But endless hours treating the sick and wounded took their toll. He was shipped out, ill and exhausted, after two months – in Gallipoli terms, a lifetime.”
Private Jack Dunn served as a machine gunner. “He was a Wairarapa lad and keen athlete who’d rushed to enlist with his brother. Despite being fitter than most, he came down with pneumonia after the first brutal month of fighting. When he returned from hospital – still pretty crook – the poor bugger fell asleep at his post and was sentenced to death for endangering his unit. It could’ve been any of us. Jack was game to the core, unflinching in the face of fire. The General eventually took his reputation and illness into account. On August 4th Jack was sent back to the front line.”
Another of the murals. This one showing Colonel Malone leading his men in an advance on Chunuk Bair
The Maori Contingent machine gun section was led by Aussie born Colin Warden. “On the night of August 7th he guided his 16-man team up to Rhododendron Ridge, just below Chunuk Bair. They joined the New Zealand machine gun teams already there. The next day, the boys came under intense fire, but they kept the guns going no matter what, taking charge as others were hit. More than half of them were killed or wounded that day.”
Private Rikihana Carkeek, 25 years old.
Lottie (Charlotte) Le Gallais was a military nurse on board the hospital ship Maheno, which set out from Wellington in July. She hoped to meet up with her brother Leddie, who was stuck on Gallipoli, but their paths would never cross. In November, all Lottie’s letters to Leddie came back to her. An official black stamp read ‘Killed, return to sender’. He’d been dead four months, but only family back home had received the news. Lottie wrote, “So there it is. No mistake. Leddie is dead. I felt sick.”
An example of the deception rigged up by the retreating Anzacs to make the trenches appear to be still manned and cover the retreat. Water would drip from the top can to the bottom, eventually creating enough weight to discharge the rifle, keeping up a steady stream of fire despite the trenches being empty.
A mural showing the retreat
Sgt. Cecil Malthus during the retreat. I was particularly taken by the eyes. An almost stunned, lifeless stare, walking away from Gallipoli. So many images would have been seen by those eyes that could never be unseen. After the war, he married and lived in France for two years, then Tasmania for a decade, raising five children, before settling in Christchurch, New Zealand in 1934.
Colonel Malone was one of the men I became really invested in, as I read about his time on Gallipoli in various exhibits and images. He is shown in one of the murals above. This is a letter he wrote home and his young daughter has written at the end of the letter, after he was killed. “He is dead now. Daddy is dead now.” What was particularly sad was he was killed by “friendly fire” at Chunuk Bair when their own artillery fire exploded over his trench, killing him.

Lou had joined me at Te Papa and we looked around until the doors were closing and we ventured out into the cool of the evening and took ourselves back to our room. Another fab day. It then rounded out with another amazing experience in the form of a boysenberry cheesecake donut from the vegan bakery down the road. It lived up to the anticipation of trying this indulgent treat and it was sensational! While not vegan, Lou opted for a cookies and cream version and declared, “You can’t tell it’s vegan, it tastes just like a regular donut.” So we both gave a “mmmmmmm” of taste bud satisfaction as we savoured every bite.

A vegan treat to end the day

Today was our last day in Wellington and tomorrow we move on, this time under our own steam, driving ourselves back towards Auckland. We’re not sure where we might end up and what we might see and do along the way, but that’s the fun and adventure of freestyle travel. Take it as it comes, with open mind and open heart and wait and see what comes along. If it continues to give us the experiences we’ve had so far, it’ll be just super dooper! There’s nothing like the element of surprise and we’re looking forward to seeing what NZ unwraps for us! 

4 thoughts on “That Was Amazing

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    1. It certainly was moving, like nothing I’ve seen before. As well as the different ways they had to present the information, that was really different, the scale of the models somehow made it even more affecting.

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    1. Thanks so much. The exhibition really was incredible and thought provoking are exactly the right words to describe the experience. Glad you enjoyed the post and thanks for commenting!

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