Back to Devonport

March 6

What’s this? Had enough of New Zealand already and heading back to Tassie? To Devonport no less? No fear, we headed off to explore Auckland’s own Devonport and what a top spot it is.

The day started in the best possible way though, with a sneaky 6km run through The Domain. This is a lovely big park in the middle of Auckland with gardens and ponds and paths looping around. There were plenty of other people out and about in the early morning and quite a few runners too and I happily plodded along the paths, freestyling without really knowing where I was going. I ended up following a path that by luck took me back to near where I started, so I knew where I was. I then choofed back through the busy city with tidal waves of people flowing from buses as I dodged and weaved around the growing crowds. My watch beeped exactly 6km as I got to the hotel door. A nice round number, so that’ll do nicely.

A very nice spot for an early morning run
Various sculptures were dotted around the park for something extra to look at during the morning plod
Running past the War Memorial Museum

After a leisurely start, we headed back down towards the harbour and took ourselves onto the ferry for the quick 10 minute trip across the harbour to Devonport. As we got onto the ferry, the young fella working on the ferry who was seeing us on gave a warning to a tall man in front of us to “Mind your head,” as he walked under a low hanging bar. Nothing was said as we walked past and the young fella looked at us, gauging our comparative lesser height, gave a wink and said, “Y’oright luv.” Well, that did make me smile, especially as it came with a wink! “I’m not sure if that’s endearing or insulting,” I said to Lou, “but I’m going to take it as endearing!”

Off to Devonport
Leaving the skyline of Auckland behind us

As soon as we got off the ferry, I felt my whole body and soul relax. “Aaaah,” I said, “I feel calmer already.” Instantly, the pace was slow, we were beside the beach, the streets were quieter and it was simply delightful. We had a quick restorative snack in a park and then took ourselves on a self-guided walk along the waterfront, up to North Head and around lovely Devonport. I’ll let the photos and the captions tell the story.

Devonport CBD…aaah, quiet!
Hand feeding the brave and friendly pigeons reminded me of doing the same thing in Croatia
Devonport’s Commemorative Sea Wall. It was begun in 1902 and finished in 1929 to mark the coronation of Edward VII.
There were some lovely houses with perfectly manicured and tended gardens.
The black rocks are lava flows from the eruption of Mount Victoria. The lava flowed down the mountain and through to the sea, leaving the remains still seen today.
A view back across to Auckland and down to Devonport from the top of North Head
North Head played an important role in the defence of Auckland Harbour from the 1880’s when it was fortified because of fears of a Russian attack. Between 1888 and 1914 prisoners held at North Head were put to work digging a network of tunnels forming part of the defence facilities.
Part of the defence structures at North Head. The little roof is part of a battery observation post and this is one of the oldest original structures remaining on North Head, built in 1889. It was designed to house the fire command crew of the disappearing gun. Orders were given here by voice pipes for seven years before telephones were installed at North Head. Protected from the weather by its “umbrella roof”, the observers would scan Waitemata Harbour for signs of enemy vessels
The gun was known as a “disappearing gun” because it would vanish underground after each shot. It was state of the art at the time when it was installed in 1887. When the gun fired, the recoil would push it back down into the gun pit where it could be reloaded under cover. On the right hand side is the entrance to a tunnel, where crews could move under ground to the gun pit.
Looking across to Rangitoto from the top of North Head

We had some lunch in a park beside Albert, called simply “the huge tree” and with the company of a very canny and persistent magpie who kept giving us the stare down, then jumping onto the table to try his luck. ‘Good onya mate’, I thought, ‘full marks for effort!’

Albert
First do some reconnaissance…
…then try your luck…
…and when efforts are foiled, just give the stare down!
Benjamin the library cat 2000-2017. The plaque reads, “Benjamin had a lovely home with lovely people, but he wanted to be a special sort of cat, a library cat. So one day he came to the library and stayed. Soon he made himself the Devonport Village cat too.“
I’ve seen plenty of book swap stands, but never a plant swap. What a great idea and another lovely sign of a sense of community.

After a thoroughly lovely time in Devonport, we took to the water again to head back to Auckland city. Wham! Straight away it was jarring, with the noise and speed and traffic. I’m most definitely a country bumpkin, small town kinda gal! We decided to round out the day with a stroll through The Domain, since Lou hadn’t yet been there, so we walked the hills again and had a lovely walk through the gardens and along the paths on what had been a warm, sunny and magic day.

The sun hitting the fountain in The Domain just right for a rainbow
One of the ornate plant conservatory buildings
This group commemorates the first 100 years of the city of Auckland. The figure in the centre represents Auckland finding its strength, the figure on the right is wisdom presenting a bay leaf and the figure on the left is fertility of the soil presenting a cornucopia.

Yes, we have a Devonport in Tassie, but I reckon the NZ version is top marks. A lovely, peaceful spot for a roam and the perfect respite from the hustle and bustle of city life. Round it out with a pleasant stroll through a garden and that all adds up to…a first class day!

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